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#tailoring

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Tailoring milestone: I just let out a suit jacket for the first time!

Bit nerve-wracking tbh; I undid the lining at the hem and turned the jacket left side out and the lining came apart at least another 2" from the stress. There was SO MUCH fraying inside and I let it out (centre back seam and side back seams) less than intended because I worried it might come apart if I left any less seam allowance (left about 4mm, or 0.15").

But the good news is, it fits! It's a 6x1 DB and while it nominally fit, it was so tight around the hips that the front pulled awfully at the sole button (so much that it came off earlier and I had to re-attach the button – fucking machine-sewn buttons never last).

During the night I pondered buttonholes and have unlocked another tier of the tech tree. Above, the rather okay and nice buttonhole I did last night. Below, the one I am working on now.
The change? My stay stitching much closer to the slit, the knots pivoted up!

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Gaze upon it!
I've had a million interruptions, but yeah. Definitely looks better! Tried it with three strands of thread for this one, and it's quite stiff in feel, but does look nicer and the jacket already feels like armour so why not. Chasing the correct colour in the gradient of the thread is a little bit interesting... 😅

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The thread I'm using is absolutely not meant for this, but it's alright when doubled up, and the colour gradient is subtle enough to not offend my sensibilities. The first buttonhole is also always somewhat drunk, so the fact I got the keyhole bit that nice first go? Not terrible!
These big ones eat up so much thread, it's remarkable.

Some more of yesterday's sewing. Mostly I basted where the buttonholes need to go, so none of the layers shift or warp when handled. Then I went around the future buttonholes in tiny black stab stitch (Stitch names are fun, aren't they?) to secure the buttonhole site itself. I am comforted in my decision to do contrasting thread, because it's very hard to see the black thread. Can't see shit, captain etc.

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"Let me just check out the search term 'contrast buttonholes' real quick..."

Oh my god. OH MY GOD. Oh my god. Oh. What a fucking fantastic look, what the heck. Oh I need contrasting buttonholes in my life. Right? Maybe? That's so good! Mine won't be as good, but!
Edit: I wish I knew where this was from, reverse image search popped up nothing.

Major resize of a 2nd hand dress that was great in every other way for the bride.
I had to add at both the side seams and the back zipper to get the needed circumference at their ribs.
Then the illusion mesh needed to be reduced along with shortening the back button line by 4 buttons and loops.
I then had to add in some extra illusion mesh- taken from the front hem - to fill in the missing circumference where the bodice and mesh would meet and use some of the dress lace plus extra from my stash to cover the seams.
#rewear #handMeDownDress #remake #alterations #tailoring #bridal #sewing #weddingdress

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My head feels light. 😂 To procrastinate doing anything with the sleeves next I tried it on for the first time... And it fits! It should have since I made it off a previously fitted pattern, but still! Oh gods, it's almost exactly as it should be, and the things I'd have liked to change cannot be changed at this point so here we are. 😆 (Fitting gifs.)

Today in #1890sCheckJacket we are saying goodbye to the fun coloured pad stitching of the collar.
I've had executive function struggles today so just this joining the lapel facing and collar together has taken me... Hours. Just tiny ladder stitch by hand.
The pattern almost matches in a pretty nice way again. I didn't even eyeball it so it's just luck and it's not exact, but I'll take it!